Showing posts with label greenhouse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label greenhouse. Show all posts

Saturday, April 17, 2010

FORSYTHIA WELCOMING SPRING



My gardening blog has moved to    Riosamba Gardening and Photo Journal


Forsythia with its bright yellow flowers like a beacon in the dead of winter.    A decidous shrub.  Branches can be forced indoor blooming in winter.  Tolerate most soils, likes sun, moderate feeding. I rarely feed the forsythia and yet they thrive beautifully. Height 8 feet to 10 feet, spread 6 feet to 8 feet.  Remove oldest branches, weak or dead wood.

The variety  I have is Forsythia Suspensa (weeping).  Dense upright growth, drooping vine like branches root when touch damp soil.  During winter remove the branches that took root and transplanted elsewhere.  You may use containers to plant the forsythia seedlings.

In summer the shrub will be a mass of green foliage.  Good for screening too.

Happy Gardening !

Wednesday, March 3, 2010

Vegetable Seeds For The Garden

All the seeds from the catalogs that I ordered two months ago are all here.  These are seeds I used and had succesfully for many years.



PEAS - Green Arrow wonderful tasting peas.  High yielder with long pods on 28" vines. Frezees well.  Resistant to downy mildew and Fusarium wilt.  I have tried many variety of peas, this is the best one ever.  It is in the greenhouse thriving in flats until ready to be trasplanted in March




PEPPERS - As pepper slow in germinating, I started in flats early last month in the greenhouse.

Baby Bell, hybrid 71 days.  Glossy brilliantly colorful, crisp and sweet with few seeds.  They are wonderful for stir fry.  Miniature 1.5" to 2.5" bell peppers cover the 36" plants for extended harvest.  I was not disappointed with this variety, harvested lots of it.

Gypsy - hybrid 70 days.  Wedge shaped with 3" to 5" long fruits ripen from yellow green to bright red.  Sweet crunchy, and delicious. Vigorous and productive. Tobacco Mosaic resistant.  Freezes well too.

Sweet Banana - Heirloom, 72 days.  My favorite, easy to grow and productive. Tappered 6" long , colorful and attractive as they ripen from light green to orange and red.  Excellent for stir fry, salad and very productive.  Harvested a full basket.  Freezes well too.

Papri-k Sweet Red Paprika - Organic, long pods 8" turn to brilliant crimson when ripe.  Sturdy 30" plants are productive.  Sweet fragrant and flavorful.

King of the North - 68 days.  Bell pepper with prolific yields of large blocky slightly tapering , thick walled, dark green fruits that mature to deep red.  Sturdy, cold tolerant plants.  Delicious for roasting.

Happy Gardening !

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

NIGHT BLOOMING CEREUS



I inherited this beautiful plant from the previous owner.  It did not bloom for several years.  I repotted and give it some tender loving care, finally my hard work paid off.  Since then it has been giving me joy over the year with its delightful fragrance and flowers.

Latin name Epiphyllum Oxypetalum (night blooming cereus).  Bloom only once late at night, stay open until morning.  The fragrance would lingered for awhile.  A magnificent creation by nature leaves us in awe by this wonderful epiphyllum.  A member of orchid cactus family, it needs period of dryness and cool time temperature in the winter to ensure summer bloom.



Happy Gardening

Spring and Cherry Plum Trees

Sunshine, blue sky, wispy white clouds here and there.  Robins chasing the worms and blue jay searching for twigs to build a nest in nearby tree.   Daffodils, crocuses have emerged from their winter slumber.  Spring is in the air.  I love spring everyth is fresh and new.

Another sign of spring is the cherry plum trees in my garden.  They are always the first to bloom showing their magnificent white flowers.  Bees attracted to their strong scent.  I stood one sunny day in front of the trees and listen the bees buzzing along feasting on the cherry plum blossoms.  Robins like to eat the fruit too, ripen in late July through August.  To cover the whole trees with bird net it is impossible.  There are plenty of fruit to share around for human and birds.



Latin name for cherry plum,  prunus cerasifera or the myrobalan cherry tree.  A decidous tree belongs to the rose family,  (rosaceae in Latin).  Will grow from 15 feet to 30 feet.  The cherry plum in my garden is about 25 feet with a spread of 30 feet.  These trees are good for screening neighborhood eyesores.  The flower is about 3/4 to 1 inch with 5 petals.  Fruit size similar to cherry with characteristic of a plum.  Cherry plum taste of a combination cherry and plum.  It has a pit like cherry.  Fruit color is deep red.  My cherry plum tree leaves are deep green, some say they are purple, this probably came from different cultivation.  In autumn the leaves turn reddish-purple. 


Grown in acidic soil, might be able to grow in mild alkaline soil.   Cherry plum tree prefers full sun and moist soil which is suitable growing condition in Oregon.  The seeds dispersed by wild life.  Walking through my property ocasionally I found cherry plum seedlings.  I would dig them out and transplanted in a different place.  A slow growing tree.


I like eating cherry plum picked fresh from the tree or make them into jam, chutneys, pies and cobblers.  Use recipe as you are making cherry pie.  Last year I made cherry plum jam and taste wonderful. 



Happy  Gardening                                                                                                                      


Sunday, February 14, 2010

SEED STARTING

Growing your own seeds is fun and easy.   I have been sowing my seeds in the greenhouse for many years.  Timing is critical for success.  Soon I will be sowing peas in a reusable polystyrene trays with  individualized pyramid shaped cells which virtually  eliminate transplant shock.   I have been using this type of tray for several years.  You may find the trays here http://www.groworganic.com/ , those mushroom containers, milk carton, tofu containers, yogurt/pudding cups,  they are all perfect for seeds starting.  First you need to clean the containers with a solution of 9 parts of water and 1 part of  chlorine bleach, followed by thorough rinse with water.  The picture on the left is the polystyrene tray where I sow garden pea seeds.


Need to remember too, peppers, eggplants, tomatoes are slow germinating.  You want this to start early, especially when summer is short in your area.  I sowed tomato seeds in March, peppers a little bit early in January.   The peppers have germinated well,  I spray them with chamomile tea to prevent damping off a fungus type disease.  Broccoli and cauliflower sowed in the greenhouse as well as herb seeds later this month.  The rest such as summer squash, pumpkins, lettuce, collard, kale,  carrots all directly sowed in the garden.

Use sterile soiless seed starting mixes.  Either you make them yourself or store bought. Do not use garden soil as this contains weed seed, harbor diseases and tend to be muddy, hard and reducing germination and root growth.  Seed-starting mix containing sphagnum, vermiculite, limestone, and gypsum.

Read the seed packet for intructions and carefully determine when you have to start sowing, and  tinning the seedlings.  Germination can vary from few days to several weeks.  This depending on what variety of seeds you are sowing.  With my experience, you need to sow the seed thinly, over crowding will produce weak seedlings.  Into medium barely cover seed with starting soil and gently press into mixture.

Label and date each variety as you work.  This is important, if not you will forget which variety of seed you sowed.  Water lightly with a spray bottle.  Keep the soil moist as this important for gemination.  Then cover flats with clear plastic and keep out of direct sunlight. 

Remember to remove cover for an hour or two everyday to provide air circulation.  Most seeds germinate well between 70-75F.  I used heating cable that is burried under soil and the containers or flats I rest on it.  It worked well as long as you keep the heating cable on all the time.  Don't forget to remove covers once 50 to 70% germinated.  Remove flats or containers from heat to prevent seedlings grow thin and leggy.

Place seedlings in a bright, sunny window or if you are lucky a greenhouse.  If you do not have adequate light use artificial light 12 to 14 hours each day.  I used plant fluorescent light in the green house after dusk.  I keep checking the seedlings for fungus diasese.  This is their crucial time.  Seedlings require little fertilizer.  As they mature apply your favorite fertilizer


It is so much easier to thin seedling when they are larger. generally 1-2" tall.  Thinning is necessary to prevent crowding.

Before transplanting in the garden, acclimate the seedlings outdoors 1to 2 weeks,  this is called hardening off.  Select spot out of direct sunlight and away from wind.  If nights are still cold bring them inside.  After several days, provide 3 to 4 hours direct morning or afternoon sun.  Gradually increase daily exposure to sunlight.

Move young plants to garden for transplating preferably on cloudy day or late afternoon to minimize transplanting shock.   Set out hardy plants after heavy frost has passed.  Set out sensitive plants once night time above 58F.  I covered sensitive plants with a sheet when the forecast called for low temperature.

Happy Gardening !

Thursday, February 11, 2010

GARDENING CALENDAR FOR FEBRUARY


This gardening calendar is for the Lane county area.  Oregon is fortunate with no extreme weather this year except for the usual rain and cool temperature.   Just yesterday I finished transplanting three gooseberry bushes.   They are great for making jam, I used the recipe from those SureJell packet.  For anyone living in Lane County here are tips what to do in February in the garden.
  1. Have soil test performed on  garden plot to determine nutrient needs.
  2. Prune deciduous summer blooming shrubs and trees.
  3. Prune clematis, Virginia creeper and other vining ornamentals.
  4. Pastuerize soil for starting seedlings in pots or flats.
  5. Plant seed flats of cole crops (cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, Brussel sprouts).
  6. Prune and trellis trailing berries and caneberries.
  7. Prune fruit trees and blueberries
  8. Good time to plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs.
  9. Delayed dormant sprays of lime sulfur for fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs.
  10. Prune and train grapes; make cuttings.
  11. Prune roses.  Now is good time to plant roses and new rose varieties.
  12. Repair winter damage on trees and shrubs.
  13. Control moles and gophers with traps or poison bait.
  14. Make coldframe or hotbed to start early vegetables or flower, or a greenhouse would be a suitable place to start seeds.
  15. Plant windowsill container garden of carrots, lettuce and parsley.
  16. Plant onions outdoors as soon as soil is dry enough to till.
  17. If weather permits and soil is dry enough, spade or till garden areas for planting later.
  18. Plow down cover crops or other organic matter.
That is all for this month, until next time........

Thursday, January 28, 2010

GREENHOUSE IN THE MAKING

I don't know much about bulding greenhouse, but I could give a rundown on ours which was constructed many years ago. 

We decided to convert the carport when the roof collapsed by the sheer weight of heavy snow.  It is unusual to get snow in this area, if we do have, only lasted for a few weeks.  We hired a contractor/handyman to build our greenhouse.

The greenhouse all wood construction, beams, panels, and posts.  Glass windows and the roof a corrugated fiberglass provide ample light.  A regular greenhouse without bells and wistles.  No heating except for the growing box with heating coils where I have my seeds flats for germination.  It will stay there until ready to transplant outdoor in the spring.

Greenhouses comes in many shapes and sizes.  Ours is 10 by 20 sq.ft.,  hight from top center of the roof to the ground approximately 25 feet.  The foundation is concrete slab remainder from the carport.  Built from scratched, it is quite a sizeable greenhouse, similar to a small cabin in the woods.

When building  a greenhouse you need to consider many things.  Finding a suitable space on your property.  Obstructions such as buildings that will block light or trees.  Building codes, size of the greenhouse and the amount of money you want to spend.  You have to consider your possible options carefully.  If building a greenhouse from scratch is not an option, you can consider  prefab greenhouse that come in many sizes from small to large or in between.  The internet might give you more information on this.

There is also a good book from Sunset Publishing company by the name of Greenhouse Gardening, ISBN#0-376-03263-4, I hope this book is still in print.

Here are the images from before and after.......


                                  Carport before the snow storm                    


                                       

Under construction




                                     Windows facing west



The finished greenhouse at last